Vic's Blog

It is every photographer’s worst nightmare to lose a hard drive, a laptop, or an archive of images.  Years of work and countless photo galleries can be lost in an instant.  That’s why it’s so important to think about how you are going to store and organize your photos before something bad happens.

Gone are the days of storing photos on film in a cool, dry room.  Now we have hard disks, external drives, multiple formats, CDs, DVDs, internet storage and memory cards.  Instead of storing a copy of the image, we are storing data that must be findable and readable…sometimes this is harder than it sounds!

External Hard Drives

The best way to store images is on an external hard drive—or rather, on multiple external hard drives.  Hard drives are the easiest to access from your computer, and they can store the most data, making it possible to store thousands and thousands of searchable photographs.  However, these are mechanical devices and as such are not indestructible. 

I recommend mirroring data on hard drives so that a copy of every image resides on two different drives.  If one fails, you have a backup.

File Formats

It is best to save your files as RAW files and/or uncompressed TIFF files.  These are large files, but they save your images in the highest possible quality and will never be obsolete.  Just as with film, the higher the quality of the negatives, the better the prints will be.

Organization

Another issue in storing your photo galleries is how you will organize all the images you have.  There is one thing to remember here: pick a method and stick to it!  Choose date (month & year), location (“Grand Canyon Photography”), or theme (wildlife, landscape, etc.).  You may choose to combine these, but always start with the same one.  You will forget where certain photos are located, so the having a system for it will save you time and energy in the long run.

DVDs

Many photographers keep a copy of their photos on DVD. And sometimes hard drives are just too expensive.  If you choose to store images on DVD then make sure that you buy high quality DVDs, that you store them well, and that you have two copies of every image…on different DVDs!

Online Storage

Storing images online can also be a good option.  Online images are more accessible (from anywhere you have an internet connection) and easier to share.  The problem is that it often takes hours to upload even a small number of high-quality images.  With some websites (like Photo Shelter) you can mail a DVD or a hard drive to them so that many photos can be put on their server at once.

I’ll talk more about this at my nature photographic workshops if you require more assistance. 

An important and often overlooked aspect of getting great nature photos is equipment maintenance.  Especially if you plan to reproduce your images as high-quality fine art prints, make sure that you are getting the best quality photos that your gear is capable of.  This means: keep your lenses and camera bodies clean and dry.

For the outdoor photographer, the lens is what must be constantly taken care of.  There are a number of things to look out for, namely: dirt and dust, scratches, and water.

Dirt and Dust

Dirt and dust on the lens is the most common problem.  Nature photographers in Colorado and Wyoming are constantly battling the dry, dust-filled climate.  Dust on the lens isn’t the end of the world, but you should try to avoid it as much as possible.  Dirt on the lens can be worse though, as the minerals in dirt are often harder than the glass at the front of the lens.

The best way to avoid dust on the lens is to keep the lens cap on the camera as much as possible. When the lens does get dirty you’ll want to have the following to clean it: professional cleaning solution (don’t use Windex or other household cleaners as the additives may damage your lens), a microfiber cloth, compressed gas or a blower bulb, and some pristine cleaning tissue.  All of this can be purchased for about $20 at your local photo store, so make sure you don’t leave home without this failsafe kit.

Scratches

I recommend that all photographers invest in high quality skylight or polarizing filters for their lenses.  This is essentially putting an inexpensive piece of glass in front of a very expensive piece of glass.  Believe me; you do not want your lens to get scratched.  The cost of replacing a piece of glass on a lens is usually around the cost of the lens itself! 

When dirt gets on your lens, try to remove as much as possible with compressed gas, then apply that professional cleaning solution.  Never use a dirty piece of tissue to clean your lens as this will certainly lead to scratches.

Water 

Water is another constant enemy for outdoor photographers—especially in the Colorado Mountains, where rainstorms can take you by surprise.  Lenses are not usually watertight, and once water gets inside the lens, it can damage motors and leave spots and residue inside. 

To avoid water leaking into your lens, always use a rain hood when shooting in a downpour or even drizzles.  Rain hoods aren’t expensive and they could save you lots of money in the long run. 

Also, be careful when moving your camera from one temperature to another (like from a warm house into moist winter air).  Keep your camera in your camera bag, and introduce it to the new temperature slowly, to avoid condensation.

Photographing wildlife can be an incredible experience. Spending time outdoors, tracking animals, getting great shots, living off the land…it can make for a memorable week!

But it can also be miserable.

A common mistake among inexperienced photographers is taking too much equipment. It’s happened to all of us; you set out with what feels like a light pack and, after hours of Colorado hiking, your gear becomes so heavy that you want to give up.

Making wildlife photography rewarding has to do with how you prepare and especially what equipment you bring with you.

Here are some ideas for lightening your load:

     -Use lightweight lenses whenever you can.  Often an ƒ/4 lens will weigh less than an ƒ/2.8 at the same focal length. Less glass in there!

     -If light conditions allow it, always bring lighter lenses—you’ll thank me later!

     -Try using a monopod instead of a tripod.  You can achieve similar shots with a monopod in combination with an optically-stabilized lens… instead of a much more cumbersome tripod in tow.  If you can get a lightweight, carbon-fiber monopod that’s even better.

Keep in mind that animals often have more acute senses of hearing and smell. Once you get in range of the animal you want to photograph, remember these simple rules: 

     -Approach from downwind.

     -Minimize any noise an animal might hear by treading lightly.

     -Take the least ‘exposed’ route to the shot… that is, stay under cover of brush and trees instead of being out in the open for animals to catch sight of you suddenly.

     -Carry no food and certainly don’t smoke.

     -Seems funny, but you might even rub dirt on yourself to minimize your body odor.

     -Don’t wear after shave, perfume, antiperspirant or any scent whatsoever.

I’ll cover more in-depth techniques for photographers interested in getting great Colorado wildlife shots. In the meantime, get out there and try it for yourself!

As a nature photographer I am often asked, What is the difference between nature photography and fine art nature photography?  What separates my prints from the postcards that you buy at the tourist shop?  Where is the line between framed fine art prints and landscape photos on the glossy pages of a travel magazine?

Well, I often wonder that same thing myself! 

Yet, when I think of the care that fine art photographers put into their work, their attention to detail and their exacting representation of the wild world… I am certain that there really is a difference between fine art and nature photography.

I think one of the main differences is the sense of wildness that a fine art print imparts.  A fine art photographer makes it his or her job to put the viewer in touch with all that is wild—to put you close to the daring and unpretentious world.  These are the photos that you frame and hang on your wall because they give you a palpable feeling of grandeur, one that connects you directly to the immense and raw world around you. 

Rather than simply recording a landscape, or imparting the simplest kind of beauty, fine art nature photography depicts the world as it really is—rich, dangerous, inspiring, tumultuous, and untamable.

Fine art photography carries you to the place where the photographer—camera in hand—found his calling.

What are your thoughts on the difference between nature photography and fine art photography?

One of the things I love about being a landscape and animal photographer is giving advice to would-be nature photographers.

Talking about composing shots while you’re literally in the trenches… and about being prepared for every outdoors image, all of that ‘shop talk’ is hugely rewarding. That’s why I hold regular nature photographic workshops and try to make myself available to up and coming shooters who have questions.

And do they ever! Many photographers contact me and ask if I’d  review their portfolios and give them some honest feedback.  I’m happy to do this and I encourage people to give me a call.

Be forewarned, though!  

I only like looking at the portfolios of those who take their nature photography to heart. I will give feedback as one serious photographer speaking candidly to another. Your results don’t have to be perfect yet – otherwise why would you be asking me for input – but your seriousness needs to show!

This is a wonderful community of nature photographers, those who take capturing life outdoors — in all its complexity and unrehearsed charm and grandeur – seriously.

If you’re a serious nature photographer and you’d like to send me your portfolio for a critique, expect to get real criticism, not just some watered-down words of encouragement.  My teachers were great because they were honest and sometimes ruthless with me.  That‘s how I progressed—by having someone point out what was lacking in my work.

And this is how I think it’s best to help other photographers.  I won’t be mean, but I will be honest, as I would hope that you would be if you were in my shoes.

Hey, and if you’re having trouble getting your portfolio together, or if you want some pointers when you’re starting out, be sure to check out my nature photographic workshops.   Click here for more info.

Buying a new camera can be difficult! 

There are so many brands, so many models and so many features.  How do you know which is right for YOU?  How can you know if you’ll need 8 megapixels or 12 megapixels?  Should you get an SLR or a point-and-shoot?  Should you spend $150 or $1500?

Well, the first question to ask yourself is: What kind of pictures will I be taking?  (Are you the kind of person who forgets to bring the camera to family events…or do you bring the camera and the tripod?)

Serious Photographers Should Buy A Digital SLR!

If you take special pride in your photographs, then you should consider buying a digital SLR camera.  These cameras are more expensive (starting at about $600) but have a variety of features that put them a cut above– longer battery life, instant start-up, more manual controls, a larger image sensor, and continuous shooting.  If you’re a serious outdoor photographer and you want to take stellar photographs, a digital SLR is what you’ll need.

The Canon EOS 50D 

I find that most outdoor photographers will find everything they need in the Canon EOS 50D.  For wildlife and scenery photography, this is a great choice—it has many of the features of a professional model without the extra cost. 

The 50D is great for wildlife photography because of its fast continuous-shooting mode.  This camera can shoot 6.3 shots per second, which is perfect for when you’re shooting a fast moving animal.  With 6.3 shots per second you know you won’t miss the best shot.

The other feature of the 50D is its flexible ISO settings.  The Canon 50D can shot at ISO 6400 and 12800… which is invaluable to anyone shooting in early morning or dawn/dusk light.  Early morning is the best time to capture wild animals, and with the 50D you’ll never miss the shot. 

The 50D has the kind of tools that take the camera out of the equation…so you can concentrate on what’s really important!