Vics Blog

Utah offers some of the most beautiful landscapes to photograph in the United States. The wildness of the place is almost unimaginable and it is peppered with national parks and monuments including Arches, Canyon lands, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Glen Canyon, Grand Staircase Escalante and Zion. Tucked between these awesome places are numerous state parks and Indian reservations which possess fascinating treasures for the eyes to behold at every turn.
A few years back I’d seen an inspiring photograph of a old Anasazi ruin that really captured my interest. It was of an ancient rock house tucked underneath a stone cliff that literally looked like it was erupting into flames of fire. I knew it had to be located somewhere in the southwestern part of the country but couldn’t remember its name or a place to start looking. After several hours of researching cliff dwellings and their locations on the internet, I happened upon the same picture I’d seen before. The ruin was called “Firehouse” and after some more digging, it was indeed located several miles west of Blanding, Utah.
One of the magazines I shoot for needed some pictures of desert big horn sheep so Wayne Morine and I hired a guide and planned a trip to the Superstition Mountains just east of Phoenix in late April. We thought we’d take an extra day along the way and find the Firehouse. All the research said that if you wanted to get the best shots they had to be taken between late October and February so that reflections from below the ruin would light up the flames of sandstone in the overhanging cliff. It was also very specific that early morning or late afternoon gave the best chance of capturing the fiery display.
We got away from Ft. Collins very early, but after seven hours of driving we were running late. It took additional time to find the hidden turn off of Utah highway 95 on to a rutty, dirt road that led to the trailhead. After another mile of hiking through a canyon of dust and sink holes we found the ruin at around one p.m. but the afternoon had turned overcast. There was a couple sitting near the base of the dwelling and they informed us that they hadn’t taken a shot because the light had been flat all day long. The little stone house wasn’t much higher than four or five feet and we wondered how short the natives must have been who lived there.
We shuffled around the area for a few disappointing minutes and found some ancient pictographs on some of the surrounding rocks but the light was terrible. All the luck was against us. Wrong time of the year, wrong time of the day and clouds. We were just about to hike back out when our fortunes completely changed in about two seconds. The sky cleared and for some unknown reason the light turned fabulous. We swore we could hear native Indian chanting in the wind as the ancient resident ghosts taking pity on us. The stone cliff seemed to change into flame and we took several hundred pictures in the next two hours. Sometimes you just get the good breaks. Click

The New Year has begun and I suppose it’s time to make one of those big resolutions for 2012. Being a superstitious man and prone to the prophecies of the Mayan calendar and Nostradamus, I was pondering the necessity of it all having them predicting the end of the world on December twenty first. However, between now and then there’s a lot of important photography to be done recording the last days of all the critters on this planet. I don’t know who’ll look at them when we’re gone, but maybe aliens in a flying saucer will wonder what happened and it will all be recorded on my dvd’s for them to figure out.
Last fall I was up in the high mountain tundra when I noticed a big bruiser bull elk on top of a peak about a thousand yards away. The sun was just coming up and he was herding his harem of cows around a boulder field way up above the timberline. The scene was magnificent as the sun dripped golden light across his hide and antlers and made them glimmer against the dark rocks in the background. The sky was a deep Colorado blue. He bugled every two or three minutes and the steam from his bellowing lungs filled the frigid air. I knew that I had to shorten the distance between us to get some good shots.
Three thousand feet , loose boulders and high elevations make for a stiff hike when you’re just a bit out of shape. Starting out at a fast pace, I covered the first few hundred feet in no time and promptly felt like my heart was going to explode from my chest. Luckily he and his girls weren’t moving anywhere so I slowed the gait and covered the remaining ground in a relatively short time. Moving much closer, I started to put the sneak on them by taking cover behind some big granite rocks the size of small houses and staying downwind so they didn’t scent me. Then, slowly peeking out from my hiding spot I quickly realized that in the minute spent out of sight, the whole herd had begun to move back down the mountain that I’d just climbed up. Bummer!
The light was still incredible and those pictures were waiting to be had, so off I went right back down to where it had all started thirty minutes before. Luckily, the elk stopped for a little romance before disappearing over the next ridgeline and I had the chance to finally catch my breath and steady the camera. Thank goodness the Canon 100-400mm telephoto lens had image stabilization and the photos I took were some of my best.
That gets me back to my declaration for this year. In front of you and all the world and knowing of its eminent demise , I’m going to get in shape and make sure that when we all make it into 2013, you’ll still be around looking at my pictures.

It’s four am and as I reach for the alarm and brush away the cobwebs of a deep sleep, my brain begins the eternal struggle of burying myself back in the comfort of the covers or rising to adventures that certainly await me. Through all the years I usually made the choice for the latter and for the most part have been richly rewarded with some really good pictures. Last evening’s forecast called for snow and below zero temperatures and a quick glance out the bedroom window confirms that the weatherman is right for once. It’s a quick shower, one last fleeting look at the warmth of the bed as it calls me back, winter clothes and hiking boots and out of the garage at fifteen below.
The tires of the Xterra crunch loudly on the snow when it’s this cold and the drive up the Poudre Canyon will be dark and slow. The guy on the radio says that everyone should consider staying home this morning. I reach for the hot tea on the console and steam fogs my glasses for just a second as a blizzard of endless snowflakes drift in the headlights. Not far from town there are several vehicles that have slid off the road so I slow the truck to a crawl and know that the trip will take a bit longer than usual. Am I nuts?
A couple hour later I pull off and park the truck a few feet from the trailhead. It’s always coldest in the minutes before dawn and the steam from my breath rises like a chugging locomotive as my legs churn through the deep snow and up towards the cliffs. Eventually I find a rocky outcrop of frozen granite that affords an incredible view and I have a sit to rest my lungs . My thoughts turn to the people back in town who’ll miss these beautiful moments but on the other hand maybe they won’t today.
For two bone chilling hours I scan the crevices and icy ledges looking through the telephoto lens for Bighorn rams. Nothing. Another hour passes and I have thoughts of moving somewhere else so that the blood will start moving in my backside again or just going home and calling it a day. Check the battery to make sure it hasn’t lost its charge, set the ISO for 600 which will give the camera ample shutter speed to stop any movement and stay for a few more minutes. Just a few more minutes.
Opportunities happen when patience, practice and perseverance come together and today is no exception. He moves silently and deftly around the corner of a long ledge and shows himself a mere fifty yards from me. My heart skips a beat as I observe his magnificence and slowly raise the camera, taking time to carefully focus and shoot. He scrapes away the snow with his horns and hooves to expose frozen blades of grass which he rips away by the roots. The long stems hanging from his mouth make it look likes he’s spitting flames. In those magical moments, when time stands still, I hear the click of the shutter over and over again and know that the “fire breathing ram” is worth every bone chilling minute.

For photographers interested in taking quality images of wildlife a good telephoto lens is paramount to the task. Good lenses come in a variety of shapes and sizes and like the mechanic who uses many tools to work on your car, lenses are used for different purposes as well. A zoom lens makes it easier to get in as much or as little of your subject as you want without the need to physically move yourself around. For example, I use a Canon 100-400mm f4.5 IS which is a zoom lens and means the focal length can be set from 100-400mm, has a minimum F stop of 4.5 and uses image stabilization. A prime lens is one that has a fixed focal length and cannot be adjusted. If you want to get more or less of your subject in the photograph then you need to physically move yourself in or out.
Prime lenses take sharper photographs than their zoom counterparts because they make fewer compromises in the internal design. However, zoom lenses are less expensive, usually don’t require the use of a tripod, are compact and lightweight in comparison and let you move quickly in rapidly changing situations. Both have their place in nature photography, but I prefer zoom lenses because I feel that mobility outweighs everything else. Let me give you an example.
In my opinion, moose are the most dangerous animal that I photograph. They have short tempers, are unpredictable and can run like a race horse which is a lot faster than yours truly. Bulls are tough to find, but last year I found a big one in a swampy area over by Grand Lake. He was standing in a bunch of gnarly willows munching on leaves and every time he moved there was a sucking, sloppy sound as his hooves pulled out of the muck. To get good pictures I had to get down in that junk as well, but I kept my distance at about forty yards and began to shoot. The willows were so thick that I needed to move a bit to my left for a clearer shot and for some reason that triggered a temper tantrum in the bull. Without warning, he laid his ears back and charged. I tried to move, but the mud yanked at my boots and as I fell, lens in hand, he closed the distance between us in a heartbeat. In an instant, his antlers whooshed directly over me. Luckily he kept right on going and laid down in another thicket several yards away. As I got up, mud and yuck dripping from every part of my body, I think I could see a grin on his face. We had words for several minutes.
Had I been using a primary, fixed focal length lens and tripod, he would have destroyed them and probably me in the process as I tried to save thousands of dollars in equipment. As it was, I just had to scrape a bit of mud of my camera and lens. It’s one of the best examples I know for using a zoom.

I usually spend about five days a week in the field and during the last three years have shot over a million pictures. During a lifetime of being in the outdoors, I have the feeling that this is my home.. Somehow my heart knows that reverence for all the life here is key and treating it with total respect is paramount. There is knowing that we are all one with nature and without its wildness we would be in deep trouble.
The creatures that live out there in the wild country are intelligent and beautiful. They live in perfect harmony in their world and being with them everyday I’ve come to know life in a more patient and caring way. Now you may laugh at the notion, but I believe that most of them are as curious about us as we are about them. Knowing that we are part of their world and they ours has opened my mind to the fact that talking to the animals helps in taking their pictures. By speaking softly in a calm, soothing tone, I’ve had many critters come in close to find out what the heck is going on. Even when they seem a bit skittish at first, they calm down quickly and go about their lives which gives me the opportunity to capture natural behaviors.
Last fall I happened upon two big mule deer bucks that had hunkered down in a stand of thick pines trees and scrub. Following tracks in the late afternoon snow for about a mile my eyes caught the slight movement of antlers among the branches. Moving slowly closer over the next few minutes I could tell by their body movements that they were getting a little edgy and didn’t necessarily appreciate my wonderful company. Not wanting to blow the opportunity for some good shots we started a conversation right then and there. In a relaxed, calming tone I asked permission to take their pictures and then just asked about their day, where they hung out, and how life was treating them in general. Small talk but they instantly calmed down and went about their business. They weren’t particularly photogenic over the next hour and it was starting to get dark so I thanked them for their time and told them I’d try to be back the next day to get better pictures.
Maybe it was coincidence, but the next morning they were exactly in the same spot. We talked some more, but the picture taking just wasn’t getting any better because the heavy timber was getting in the way and they seemed to be getting a little annoyed. There was an opening just beyond the stand of trees and I asked if they wouldn’t mind walking over to it so that we could get some better shots. I promised that if they would oblige me we’d quit the photo session and I’d get out of their hair. Instantly they walked over to the meadow, posed perfectly and we got the great pictures. I quietly said thank you, and walked away.

Photographing wildlife is incredibly exciting and spending time in the wilderness with all that’s wild is almost as good as it gets. The key word is “almost” because spending time with my lady is always better. Candi is wonderful to travel with and one of our favorite destinations is Santa Fe , New Mexico between Thanksgiving and Christmas. It’s an incredibly romantic city with lots of fine dining, art galleries, shopping and beautiful scenery. The scent of burning pinon pine and the spice of Northern New Mexican cuisine wafts through the cool air and adds to the southwestern ambiance. Most nights we walk the streets, stepping into the local cantinas for a margarita or two and listening to the sounds of Spanish guitars as they serenade the evening away.
Now you might be wondering what all this has to do with photography? Santa Fe offers a great deal of subject matter and gives me a needed break from elk, deer and climbing up and down the mountains in snow storms. I also haven’t found any ill tempered moose in its streets ready to charge. Light in that part of the country is surreal and draws painters and photographers from all over the world trying to capture its magic. The sky is an azure blue and takes your breath away. Sunsets can be magnificent and they paint the adobe walls of the city in hues of coral and gold. We always spend several hours walking through the old neighborhoods looking for alleyways that hide hand hewn doors , gates and windows painted in turquoise and pink. The city celebrated its 400th anniversary in 2011 and all those years reflect in its hidden corners. On one side street we found a bright pink gateway adorned with all kinds of religious artifacts. On another, an aged door with chipped, faded blue paint and a large pumpkin at the side which made for wonderful contrasts in color. Take your time, be patient and look for everything unique. I try to use a short zoom lens which allows me to frame subjects easily.
We’ve been lucky enough to enjoy a dusting of snow on a couple of occasions. Canyon road hosts tons of galleries and during the holiday season its doors and windows are decorated with chili wreaths and ristras. As the gentle snowflakes fall, they make for perfect postcard pictures.
In the late evening look for luminarias along coble stone walkways which adorn the city for the holiday season. The shadows of flickering candle light in the brown paper bags can make for fascinating images. I like to take pictures of sculptures covered in snow which adorn the courtyard of Saint Francis Cathedral on the east side of the plaza. Take your tripod and use long time exposures to capture them against the stone walls of the church. Oh, and one last thing…..Make sure to relax and breath in the enchantment of this place with the one you love.